Getting to the Potter’s Atelier
So, how did I find out about this man that makes pottery in Japan’s countryside?
Last year, I stayed at a guesthouse in Nishiwaga, Iwate prefecture. A quaint town of just over 4,000 residents with Lake Kinshu, its two-lane roads, and eclectic craftsmen. Mr. Mori, a guy in his early 40s like me had a collection of finely made cups and plates in his kitchen. He told me that they were made by a guy named Mr. Kikuchi. I knew I had to visit the gentleman.
I called in beforehand to make sure his atelier was open.
Expecting a glum, disinterested voice on the end of the line, I was pleasantly surprised by his calm and upbeat reply that “Yes, I’m open until 6pm”.
When I arrived, he immediately said “Did you call earlier?”
It was evident that you had to have heard or read about him, to get to his atelier/shop/adjacent home. There’s no foot traffic here. No fancy entrance that attracts the masses like some gift shop in Kyoto.
Left) His primary workspace with electric wheel
The Potter’s Background
Keiji Kikuchi is a one-of-one. A 70-year-old gentleman who has lived in several parts of Japan (including Tokyo), only to return to his roots in Nishiwaga, where he has lived with his wife for the past 40 years. He says that he never intended to become a potter, but a serendipitous encounter led to apprenticing for a master potter in Mashiko, Tochigi prefecture, an area known for its pottery.
He reminisces about his time spent with his teacher. The master would wake up late, drink tea with different sets of guests throughout the day, and bang out 50 creations in one hour and call it a day. Rounds of sake were the norm afterwards.
He says that the brick-made oven outdoors was destroyed in a natural disaster. Now he relies solely on his oven indoors, which gives it more consistency at nearly a 90% conversion rate. His now defunct outdoor oven didn’t give him a good yield, and lacked consistency, but gave his pottery a unique one-of-one quality and unintentional finish.
Quality time with the Potter
We talked a lot – nearly two hours.
He said that a young guy in his twenties used to bike from a nearby town every week to chat with him – that he misses him. He transferred to an office in the Kansai area. I promised that I’ll be back. He came outside to say goodbye and almost said in a melancholy voice, “I hope you’ll be back”.
I promised him I will.
I felt like a veteran journalist, asking him about his work and life in what felt like a scene out a movie.
A gentle breeze blew through his shop. His beautiful creations displayed tastefully on his antique Japanese furniture. The mountains and occasional one car train that passed by created the perfect backdrop for our conversation.
I was at ease.
If you’re interested in seeing pottery in Japan’s countryside, Mr. Kikuchi’s atelier/shop is one of the stops we can make to see the craftsmen in Nishiwaga, Iwate Prefecture, known as N-Crafts. We can also arrange for your very own pottery making class as well!
Any questions or ready to book a trip?
Go deep, get wet, breathe in the fresh air.
